In Conversation with Lee Gross of M Café

Chef Lee Gross has been studying Macrobiotics and alternative health since 1999. Lee was the former personal chef of Gwyneth Paltrow, and he helped open M Café De Chaya in 2005. He has always possessed a passion for discovering innovative ways to create tasty yet nutritious food, and the creation of M Café perfectly aligns with his philosophy! The eatery is one of my all-time favorite restaurants in Los Angeles, whether I am in the mood for a fresh salad, crispy avocado toast, or vegan breakfast burrito. Each and every item I have ordered from the menu has been outstandingly delicious, and I have been a loyal customer over the years. I have always extremely admired Lee’s avant-garde culinary techniques and have always wanted to pick his brain about everything from what is always in his pantry at home to the accomplishment he is most proud of thus far. I am so honored to feature such an inspirational chef and entrepreneur on The Zeitgeist this month.

Alexandra: When did you first become interested in macrobiotic cuisine?

Lee: In 1997 I took a summer sous-chef position at the Omega Institute for Holistic Studies in Rhinebeck, New York.  The executive chef at the time was an amazing woman named Julie Jordan, and it was she who introduced me to macrobiotic philosophy and cuisine.  I was immediately intrigued, and quickly embraced it as a way to move my cooking career forward in a proactive, ecologically, socially and spiritually positive way.

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A: How has traveling extensively around the globe influenced your cooking?

L: Travel is like the grease for the gears of the chef’s creative mind!  Travel has allowed me to immerse myself in the culture of different places, which has given me a deeper understanding of how indigenous cuisines evolve in the context of the culture, environment and history of the region. It was pure joy for me to learn how to make paella mariscos from a local chef on the Spanish island of Majorca, who used ingredients native to the island in its preparation, including numerous Mediterranean fish and shellfish, vegetables and herbs, and his prized Majorcan olive oil which he pressed himself from olives grown just steps from the kitchen. Similarly, the experience of eating true shojin-ryori in a Japanese mountain monastery helped me to better understand how and why this highly evolved style of cooking formed the culinary foundation for much of the classic macrobiotic repertoire.

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A: Can you share a few of your personal favorite items from the M Café menu?

L: I’ll always love the original favorites, like the California Club Sandwich with that smoky tempeh bacon, and the M Chopped Salad with it’s savory herb-baked tofu, crunchy tamari-roasted almonds and creamy, tangy peppercorn ranch dressing. But I also love all of the new items created by Chef Kenjo, from the phenomenally delicious M Banh Mi and Avocado Cripsy Toast, to the more delicate and elegant Crispy Salad with it’s mix of whole-grain barley, black quinoa, burdock and brussels sprouts, and, of course, the Seitan Katsu-Kare which is a macro version of the classic Japanese curry… which was inspired by Indian flavors introduced to Japan by the British during the Meiji era (1868-1912) when India was under colonial rule of the British Raj.  Which makes M Cafe’s Katsu-Kare a Japanese-macrobiotic-British-Indian mash-up!  How about that for culinary evolution?!

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A: You have accomplished so much throughout your career. Which accomplishment are you most proud of thus far?

L: Sitting here thinking back, I can recognize my career as a series of accomplishments, but at the time they were really a succession of learning experiences, lots of hard work, and a drive fueled by loads of passion and curiosity.  But I guess I am most proud of what we did at M Cafe in 2005 – opening to such an amazing reception from the critics and public alike.  And I am proud of how the new team at M Café is carrying the torch forward.  My personal accomplishments include the raising of two incredible — and hungry–little girls, Eliana and Norah. Cooking for them is my greatest pleasure in the world!

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A: What is always in your pantry at home? Do you have a go-to meal or snack?

L: Of course you’ll find lots of whole grains and beans in our pantry, and plenty of nuts and dried fruits for the girls to snack on.  I still love good old crunchy roasted peanut butter slathered on a brown rice cake with a good drizzle of honey. Or better yet, on my wife’s sourdough bread, fresh from the oven.

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A: What piece of advice do you have to share with people who aspire to work in the food industry?

L: Focus yourself by tuning in to your own passion. What aspect of the industry, and what type of cuisine truly inspires you?  Seek out books, blogs and jobs that will help you to satisfy your curiosity. Learn as much as you can, and work as hard as you can – And you will work hard in this business!  But if you truly love food, and making people happy, you will find that the hard work will be worth it.

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A: What’s next for you? 

L: I will continue to lend my support to the growth and evolution of the M Café restaurants, and look forward to growing the business in other areas. Maybe even finally writing a book!? I am also involved in a New York based food business and hope for continued success in that endeavor. But beyond that, who knows?  But I am going to make more time to play the drums, and to cook for (and with) those two special little girls in my life!

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